Check tire pressure against the tire and rim limits. Look for cuts, bulges or a loose bead.
What am I looking for?
Find the tire size and pressure information on the sidewall, then check the rim instructions too. A sidewall maximum is not a target pressure. Look for cuts, bulges and a bead that is not seated.
Inspect the sidewall and bead. A cut, bulge or exposed casing needs attention. Simplified illustration; not a fit or wear gauge.Check your tire-pressure limits
Check that both wheels are seated and secured. Spin them and look for rubbing or a wobble.
What am I looking for?
Check the wheel is seated and secured using the instructions for its axle. A spin check can reveal rubbing or wobble; it does not confirm axle security.
Test each brake separately. The lever should not reach the grip; pads and cables must be secure.
What am I looking for?
Rim-brake pads act on the rim; disc-brake pads act on a rotor at the hub. Check each brake separately. Use its maker’s wear marks and limits; the drawing is only for identification.
Rim brake (left) · disc brake (right). Identify your system before checking its wear limits. Simplified illustration; not a fit or wear gauge.Identify the brake problem
Check the frame, fork, bars, saddle, cranks and pedals for damage or unexpected movement.
What am I looking for?
Look for damage or unexpected movement at the frame, fork, bars, saddle, cranks and pedals. Do not tighten every bolt as a substitute for finding the cause.
Look for a damaged or stiff chain link. Check that shifting is smooth and the chain stays in place.
What am I looking for?
Look for stiff or damaged links and a chain that jumps or comes off. Cleanliness is visible; chain wear needs a compatible gauge and the maker’s limit.
Inspect the links. Appearance alone cannot measure chain wear. Simplified illustration; not a fit or wear gauge.Find why the chain skips
Secure lights, bags and accessories. If all checks pass, make a cautious low-speed brake check.
What am I looking for?
Keep loose bags, lights and straps clear of the wheels and controls. Only make a cautious low-speed check after all safety concerns have been resolved.
Do not ride with weak brakes, a loose wheel or control, structural damage, a damaged tire, or a chain that jams or skips. If a check is uncertain, have a qualified mechanic inspect it. E-bikes and suspension need their own manufacturer checks.
A tick records a check, not a guarantee that a bike is safe. This sheet is an inspection guide, not instructions to tighten every bolt or replace parts on a fixed calendar.
Buy for specific jobs and compatible fittings. A larger tool count does not guarantee a useful kit.
When to stop and get help
A tire bead is displaced; casing is cut, bulged or exposed; a rim is damaged; or pressure will not hold.
A wheel, axle, handlebar, stem, headset, saddle, crank, pedal, rack, child seat or other load-bearing part is loose or its retention procedure is unknown.
Either brake cannot stop the bicycle, reaches the grip, leaks, is contaminated, is loose, or contacts the tire.
The frame, fork, handlebar, stem, wheel, crank or another structural part is cracked, severely corroded, impact-damaged or making an unexplained new sound.
The chain, derailleur, cable, housing, shifter or electronic control is damaged, jammed, skipping, or able to enter the spokes, wheel or frame.
An e-bike battery is swollen, hot, impacted, leaking, smoking, unusually odorous or paired with damaged wiring or a serious system warning.
A suspension unit leaks, binds, has abnormal play, shows deep stanchion damage or has an unknown safety-critical service state.
Any check feels uncertain, conflicts with the current manufacturer instructions, or requires a professional-only service procedure.
Sources and scope
This is an inspection guide, not a mechanical certification or a substitute for your bike and component manuals. Illustrations identify areas to inspect; they do not establish fit, wear limits or a safe pressure.